DIY OUTDOOR MOVIE THEATER
In 2014 my wife and I took on a project to build an outdoor movie theater and have some neighbors over to watch movies and enjoy the summer evenings. It started out as small weekend project that grew. I started out with a small screen and some cheap outdoor speakers. As the number of people showing up for movie night grew so did the theater.
In 2016 I expanded to a 200 watt per channel amp and I found some old Kenwood speakers on Craig’s list and upgraded my screen. I wanted to make the theater permanent, so we did not have to break it down every night. I found Rubberizeit Dura-Rubber and coated the speakers with the rubber - that was three winters ago, and everything is holding up great! I have the amp hooked up to the Wi-Fi so I can listen to music any time (like last fall when raking leaves).
We now do movies every Saturday night and have 30-40 people – sometimes we do a potluck. We live in the country on acreage so we can crank up the volume with no one to bother. Besides, all the neighbors are at movie night!
Great product and great support.
Thanks Ernie B
- 12x24 / 800SF
- 14x28 / 900SF
- 15x30 / 1000SF
- 16x32 / 1200SF
- 18x36 / 1320SF
- 18x38 / 1400SF
- 20x40 / 1600SF
- 15 gal
- 17 gal
- 19 gal
- 23 gal
- 25 gal
- 26 gal
- 28 gal
- 10 gal
- 11 gal
- 12 gal
- 14 gal
- 15 gal
- 16 gal
- 17 gal
Your average printer paper is 3.5 to 4mil thick, and the average coat of Dura-Rubber applied is about 3-5 mil with a maximum of 10mil per coat.
*Coverage Per Gallon Dura-Rubber:
5mil = 260sf
20mil = 65sf
30mil = 43sf
40mil = 32sf
*No matter how thick of a coat you apply a minimum of two coats is always required.
Primer coverage is 200-300sf per gallon.
Minimum coverages for Dura-Rubber.
Swimming pools and ponds:
Color Coat 10mil
Concrete floor or patio:
Color Coat 15mil
Color Coat 5-10mil on metal.
Most basic applications that do not require heavy durability and water saturation can be applied at about 10mil. Keep in mind the thicker the coat, the more durable it will be.
Suggested Dry Times
45°F-60°F/50% Relative Humidity – Outdoors – 12 hours per coat
65°F-75°F – Indoors – 2-3 hours per coat-1-2
60°F+/50% Relative Humidity - Outdoors – 1-2 hours per coat
60°F+/50% Relative Humidity - In shade – 2-3 hours per coat
Once dry, the Dura-Rubber can be exposed to light to moderate traffic and water. (Not Submerged in water)
Cure time (This is different from dry time) is 5-7 days Minimum. This is dependent on temperature and humidity Low temperature and or high humidity will extend the cure time.
(see chart bottom of application page) This is required when submerged in water like a pool or pond and exposed to heavy chemicals.
Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance
GENREAL SURFACE PREPARATION:
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion of the Dura-Rubber to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
Pressure wash to thoroughly clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist. And the use of an appropriate detergent cleaner. Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. Do not over pressure wash the bare concrete as you can drive water into the concrete and it will take longer to dry.
All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with the application. We recommend doing an adhesion test before final application After all, surfaces are thoroughly dry inspect for cracks, holes and any surface irregularities that will need to be repaired prior to Spray, or roller/brush Dura-Rubber.
If going directly over surface (No other coating on it) make sure the it is completely dry. If the concrete is damp to the touch it is not dry. (Use a fan to move the moisture)
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface. If going over other products such as epoxy it will need to be etched or roughed up with a grinder or sandpaper so Dura-Rubber can bond properly.
IN ADDITION TO ABUVE:
Concrete by nature is not only a very porous product but also has a tendency to retain moisture for a long period of time. Although it may look dry on the surface there actually is a lot of moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on water-cement ratio. A simple test take an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the concrete and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the concrete surface is found, the concrete is too wet for coating. Make sure the sheet does not come in contact with direct sunlight. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and concrete dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%.
We recommend to clean with a good degreaser rinse well when dry wipe down with acetone before application. On new metal be sure to remove oil from manufacturing.
If very smooth rough up with grinder or sandpaper. Clean with acetone before application.
Clean with acetone before application.
Applying reinforcement fabric if required
Repairing cracks in concrete or other mediums (up to "1/16 cracks or gaps) Repairs should be made with an application of embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 4" in width, with 2" each direction from repair at all open joints, seams, cracks, holes, or areas of damage as well as at all penetrations, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Apply one thick coat of Dura-Rubber embed fabric in coating and apply one thick coat on top while the base coat is still wet. (like doing drywall tape) see photos below.
Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , embedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed membrane. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below Application Rate:
Application Rate: See application chart above.
Rates of Application are typical:
Its not the number of coats, it is the thickness of the membrane.
If the coverage says to use 5 gallons use all the five gallons.
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying Times: 2-4 Hours
Drying times are typical: See below
Dura-Rubber can be sprayed with an airless sprayer using a .025 or larger spray tip.
Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry if no other coating on the concrete.
Do not not thin with water if you need to thin use the propylene glycol extender it will also extend the working time.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization"
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7-10 days. Depending on temperature and humidity SEE BELOW.
A good test is splash some water on the membrane and if it turns white it is not dry if it lightens it is not cured.
You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete. If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help! If the product is not properly cured and you fill with water, you will get little gas bubbles.
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower. Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above an RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. The coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify. However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too. One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon. High humidity will slow dry time. You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin: Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
Remember to check the surface temperature as well.
Rates of Application are typical:
Mixing Dura-Rubber with crumb rubber aggregate.
Mix 1-1/2 to 3 pounds of crumb rubber aggregate to 1-gallon Dura-Rubber (any color) depending on how thick you want to apply. Make sure to break up and lumps in the crumb rubber from packing. Mix well with a drill motor and paddle. Let sit for 15 min before using. If too thick, add up to 4 oz of Propylene Glycol per gallon of Dura-rubber.
Apply one coat primer at the rate of 300-400sf per gallon.
Pour the mixture around the floor and spread it with a magic trowel once the floor is covered. Clean the trowel with a rag and smooth out coating by pulling the trowel towards you. Clean trowel as necessary to prevent dragging.
If you get any cracks in the coating once dry, using a putty knife, fill the cracks with the coating mixture.
Apply coating 20-50 dry mil. For best results, apply using magic trowel. Additional coats can be applied depending on the thickness desired.
You can apply a top coat of straight Dura-rubber for a solid color and for waterproofing.
Apply two coats of sealer after 4-5 days cure time.