DURA-RUBBER LIQUID RUBBER COATING
FOR AUTOMOTIVE
Dura-Rubber
When you need long-lasting protection at your home, business, or campus from the elements, chemicals, or simple wear and tear there aren’t a lot of great solutions. The most popular products on the market are toxic enough that you have to wear a respirator when applying them. Some aren’t even waterproof. Most also only give one choice when it comes to color, black. Many of these other products have to be frequently reapplied and they are easily break down underwater.
Dura-Rubber is the next generation in rubber sealant technology.
Organizations from fire departments to universities are finding that they love using Dura-Rubber. Unlike the alternatives, Dura-Rubber: is actually made from rubber
Is safe to apply
Is 100% waterproof
Is resistant to most chemicals
Is tough enough for professionals and easy enough to use for everyone
Made From Real Rubber
Many products Flex Seal and even Liquid Rubber are not actually made from rubber. Instead they are synthetic chemical blends are either a modified asphalt, acrylic, or a polyurethane. But, Dura-Rubber is made from real rubber just like your tires, the soles of your shoes. This makes a big difference because Dura-Rubber won’t breakdown like these other chemical mixtures when submerged in water or exposed to chemicals like diesel. Because it is made from real rubber it is also safer to use.
Safe to Apply
Unlike other products on the market, you don’t need a respirator when applying Dura-Rubber. It is safe to use and apply. Dura-Rubber has considerably less odor than other products because it isn’t beginning to breakdown upon exposure to the elements like other products.
Dura-Rubber is better for the environment and won’t leach off toxic chemicals. It is engineered to last.
100% Waterproof
Dura-Rubber lasts, even when completely submerged in water. Fire departments use it to coat areas where they wash fire trucks because it’s easy to clean and the water doesn’t affect it. Professional pool installers even use Dura-Rubber for swimming pool bottoms.
Just think if Dura-Rubber is good enough for the bottom of a pool or for a fire department, it is good enough to fix a leak in your roof or to coat your deck with. The applications are limitless.
Dura-Rubber is available in Hundreds of colors.
One of the big problems with other types of sealants is that they are ugly. You want to hide them. You would never use them in your yard on a part of your house or business that is visible. But, Dura-Rubber comes in just about any color you want.
You get a product that works great and looks great.
Resistant to Most Chemicals
When you fix something or seal something, you expect that it will stay fixed or sealed. However, many alternative sealants actually begin to breakdown as you apply them. Dura-Rubber is safer and more resistant to everything from the elements to most chemicals such as cleaning solvents, acids, and petroleum products. You can apply Dura-Rubber to the floor of your shop and know that it will last.
Tough Enough for Professionals—Easy Enough for Everyone
Contractors, fire fighters, and professional installers of all kinds love Dura-Rubber. They love it because it is safe and easy to use and because it lasts. It is tough. It will hold up for years These professionals know that when they use Dura-Rubber the job will get done right the first time.
But, Dura-Rubber isn’t just for professionals. It is so easy and safe to use that you can use it for your weekend DIY projects. You don’t need any fancy equipment to apply it, it comes in any color you can imagine, and once you get it down, it will stay down.
What Are You Waiting For? Get Your Order of Dura-Rubber in the Color of Your Choice Right Now!
DURA-RUBBER – METAL
Applying Dura-Rubber over metal as a water proofer corrosion protection.
Applying fabric and product per application chart on all the seams penetrations, splits or cracks in the field, wall caps and intersections with walls. you can extend the life of the roof 5 and even 10 years depending on the condition of the field. Just follow the simple directions below.
While you're on the roof the Dura-Rubber works great to protect and mechanical equipment from rust and UV go to the following links (HVAC Equipment coatings & Swamp Coolers in this chart)
SURFACE PREPERATION: Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose rust, and scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
Product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN
PRODUCT.
Application Rate: Dura-Rubber
Rates of Application are typically:
40 mils dry Coverage is about 50-60sf per gallon.
Remember you are not applying paint you are applying a liquid membrane.
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying times are typically:
Prep coat.
Brushed or Rolled Dura Rubber will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.
Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 1-2 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity.
Application Coat
Products needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 1-3 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof in about 8. If However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. if is going to be totally submerged in water it needs to be totally vulcanized. The process of "Vulcanization" can take 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above a RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. Coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
DURA-RUBBER – POND APPLICATIONS
POND PAGE
Preparation: If going directly over concrete (No other coating on it) make sure the concrete is completely dry. If the concrete is damp to the touch it is not dry. (Use a fan to move the moisture out of the pond) Surface must be clean free of dirt and dust.
If going over other product such as epoxy it will need to be etched or roughed up with a grinder or sandpaper so Dura-Rubber can bond properly.
SURFACE PREPERATION:
Concrete by nature is not only very porous product but also has a tendency to retain moisture for a long period of time. Although it may look dry on the surface there actually is a lot of moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on water- cement ratio. A simple test takes an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the concrete and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the concrete surface is found, the concrete is too wet for coating. Make sure the sheet does not come in contact with direct sunlight. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and concrete dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%.
Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry.
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion of the Dura-Rubber to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
After all surfaces are thoroughly dry inspect for cracks, holes and any surface irregularities that will need to be repaired prior to Spray, or roller/brush Dura-Rubber.
Product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.
Repairing Crack in Concrete or Other Mediums (up to "1/4 cracks or gaps) Repairs should be made with an application of followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 4" in width, with 2" each direction from repair at all open joints, seams, cracks, holes, or areas of damage as well as at all penetrations, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , imbedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed membrane. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below Application Rate:
Application Rate:
Rates of Application are typically:
Dura-Rubber 20 mils dry for any concrete, this rate of about 40SF per gallon.
Remember you are not applying paint you are applying a liquid membrane
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying Times:
Drying times are typically:
Prep coat:
Brushed or rolled will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.
Dura-Rubber can be sprayed with an airless sprayer.
Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 4-8 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity
Application Coat
Needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 3-4 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above a RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. Coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon. High humidity will slow dry time.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
DURA-RUBBER – WOOD APPLICATIONS INCLUDING TREATED LUMBER
Preparation: When going over Wood (No other coating on it) make sure the Wood in completely dry.
If the Wood is damp to the touch it is not dry. Surface must be clean free of dirt and dust.
If going over other product such as epoxy it will need to be primed, etched or roughed up with a grinder or sandpaper depending on what it is going over so Dura-Rubber can bond properly.
Wood Decks: 80sf per gallon
It is recommended to completely seal wood prior to application of Dura-Rubber or coat complete board.
If water gets behind the coating it could work the coating loose.
Plywood Decks: 60sf per gallon
Fabric all seams and 90 degree corners.
Plywood Tanks: 40sf per gallon
Fabric all seams and corners. It very important to apply and minimum of 40sf per gallon.
Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry.
(If water gets behind the wood the wood will turn pulpy and the coating will come loose)
SURFACE PREPERATION:
Wood by nature tends to retain moisture. Although it may look dry on the surface there could be moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on water- cement ratio. A simple test takes an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the wood and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the wood surface is found, the wood is too wet for coating. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and wood dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%.
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion of the Dura-Rubber to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
After all surfaces are thoroughly dry inspect for cracks, holes and any surface irregularities that will need to be repaired prior to Spray, or roller/brush Dura-Rubber.
Product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.
Repairing Crack or seams in wood or Other Mediums (up to "1/4 cracks or gaps) Repairs should be made with an application of followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 4" in width, with 2" each direction from repair at all open joints, seams, cracks, holes, or areas of damage as well as at all penetrations, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope.
Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , imbedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed membrane. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below
Application Rate:
Remember you are not applying paint you are applying a liquid membrane
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying Times:
Drying times are typically:
Prep coat:
Brushed or rolled will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.
Dura-Rubber can be sprayed with an airless sprayer.
Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 4-8 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity
Application Coat
Needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 3-4 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above a RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. Coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon. High humidity will slow dry time.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
DURA-RUBBER – CONCRETE APPLICATIONS
Preparation: If going directly over concrete (No other coating on it) make sure the concrete in completely dry. If the concrete is damp to the touch it is not dry. (Use a fan to move the moisture out of the pond) Surface must be clean free of dirt and dust.
If going over other product such as epoxy it will need to be etched or roughed up with a grinder or sandpaper so Dura-Rubber can bond properly.
SURFACE PREPERATION:
Concrete by nature is not only very porous product but also has a tendency to retain moisture for a long period of time. Although it may look dry on the surface there actually is a lot of moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on water- cement ratio. A simple test takes an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the concrete and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the concrete surface is found, the concrete is too wet for coating. Make sure the sheet does not come in contact with direct sunlight. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and concrete dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%.
Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry.
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion of the Dura-Rubber to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
After all surfaces are thoroughly dry inspect for cracks, holes and any surface irregularities that will need to be repaired prior to Spray, or roller/brush Dura-Rubber.
Product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN
PRODUCT.
Repairing Crack in Concrete or Other Mediums (up to "1/4 cracks or gaps) Repairs should be made with an application of followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 4" in width, with 2" each direction from repair at all open joints, seams, cracks, holes, or areas of damage as well as at all penetrations, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , imbedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed membrane. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below Application Rate:
Application Rate:
Rates of Application are typically:
Dura-Rubber 20 mils dry for any concrete, this rate of about 40SF per gallon.
Remember you are not applying paint you are applying a liquid membrane
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying Times:
Drying times are typically:
Prep coat:
Brushed or rolled will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.
Dura-Rubber can be sprayed with an airless sprayer.
Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 4-8 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity
Application Coat
Needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 3-4 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above a RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. Coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon. High humidity will slow dry time.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
DURA-RUBBER – FLAT ROOF & REPAIRS
ROOF PAGE
Flat roofs fail first at the seams and penetrations. We can extend the life of the roof for many years by simple extending the life of the seams and penetrations and save money as well.
Applying fabric and product per application chart on all the seams penetrations, splits or cracks in the field, wall caps and intersections with walls. you can extend the life of the roof 5 and even 10 years depending on the condition of the field. Just follow the simple directions below.
While you're on the roof the Dura-Rubber works great to protect and mechanical equipment from rust and UV go to the following links (HVAC Equipment coatings & Swamp Coolers in this chart)
SURFACE PREPERATION: Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Caution: When spraying around the seams do not to get water under the membrane spray over the seam not into it.
Caution: You do not want to trap water under the membrane or when you seam with the Dura-Rubber on hot days you will get very big rubber bubbles of steam.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist.
Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application.
It is required to apply a primer coat on flat roof applications.
Application rate: All-purpose primer is 200-250 sf per gallon.
Product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.
Repairing Seams in membrane or Other Mediums (up to 1/4" cracks or gaps)Repairs should be made with an application product per chart followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 6" in width, with 3" each direction from repair at all joints, seams, cracks, holes, penetrations in roof and any end seams. or areas of damage, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Application on PVC, EPDM, Build up and metal roofs should follow the same guidelines. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat If you elect to put a top coat on See: (Flat Roof Coating for top coat instructions) Application Rate thickness determined by below
Application Rate: Dura-Rubber
Rates of Application are typically:
25 mils dry Coverage is about 40-50 sf per gallon.
Remember you are not applying paint you are applying a liquid membrane.
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying Times:
Drying times are typically:
Prep coat.
Brushed or Rolled Dura Rubber will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied.
Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 1-2 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity.
Application Coat
Products needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 1-3 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof in about 8. If However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. if is going to be totally submerged in water it needs to be totally vulcanized. The process of "Vulcanization" can take 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
If you have a question about your specific application please does not hesitate contacting us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above a RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. Coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
DURA-RUBBER – POOL APPLICATIONS
POOL PAGE
Preparation: If going directly over concrete (No other coating on it) make sure the concrete is completely dry. If the concrete is damp to the touch it is not dry. (Use a fan to move the moisture out of the pond) Surface must be clean free of dirt and dust. If going over other product such as epoxy it will need to be etched or roughed up with a grinder or sandpaper so Dura-Rubber can bond properly. With re-coating a pool remember there are years of saturation of chlorine, chemicals and oils that can prevent proper adhesion.
SURFACE PREPARATION:
Concrete by nature is not only very porous product but also has a tendency to retain moisture for a long period of time. Although it may look dry on the surface there actually is a lot of moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity. Cure time will depend on water- cement ratio. A simple test takes an 18-inch by 18-inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the concrete and seal it on all
four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the concrete surface is found, the concrete is too wet for coating. Make sure the sheet does not come in contact with direct sunlight. You can also use a moisture meter. Keep in mind that moisture meters measure the top inch and concrete dries from the top down moisture levels need to be less than 7%. Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry.
Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion of the Dura-Rubber to the surface. You should be sure to remove all loose, scaling, peeling, blistering, chipping, cracking, chalking or gravel, dust, dirt, sand, soot, grease, oil, uncured tar, wax, soap film, animal fats or petroleum-based residue, coal tar, chlorine, salts, efflorescence, or any other chemically reactive substance; and the surface to be coated must be completely free of all mold, mildew or any other living
organism and COMPLETELY DRY.
High-pressure 2,500 P.S.I. should be used to thoroughly pressure clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist. Mildew and similar growths need to be killed with 5% chlorine solution household bleach in water, followed by a thorough rinse with clean water. All surfaces must then be allowed to THOROUGHLY DRY before proceeding with application. After all surfaces are thoroughly dry inspect for cracks, holes and any surface irregularities that will need to be repaired prior to Spray, or roller/brush Dura-Rubber.
Product must be stirred, by hand slowly for 2-5 minutes, not shaken, or aggressively blended prior to use. DO NOT THIN PRODUCT.
Repairing Crack in Concrete or Other Mediums (up to "1/4 cracks or gaps) Repairs should be made with an application of followed by an embedded reinforcement fabric, fabric needs to be at least 4" in width, with 2" each direction from repair at all open joints, seams, cracks, holes, or areas of damage as well as at all penetrations, inside or outside corners and at any pan, or threshold that are determined by
specification to be part of the waterproof envelope. Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , imbedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed
membrane. This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below Application Rate:
Rates of Application are typically:
Dura-Rubber 25 mils dry for any concrete, this rate of about 50-60SF per gallon.
Remember you are not applying paint you are applying a liquid membrane
* These mil thickness recommendations are based on proper application and preparation. Deep Drying / Curing times depend on temperature and relative humidity.
Drying times are typically:
Prep coat:
Brushed or rolled will be ready to have cloth embedded while still wet and a top coat may be applied. Dura-Rubber can be sprayed with an airless sprayer. Make sure fabric is totally saturated with rubber and tight to the surface. This would apply to corners seams and patches. this must dry 4-8 hours depending on the size of crack filled, temperature and relative humidity.
Application Coat
Needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 3-4 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity.
"Curing" or "Vulcanization" Times
You will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete. If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help!
Optimal vs. Acceptable Humidity Levels
Optimal relative humidity (RH) levels for exterior applications tend to be in the 40-50% range or lower.
Levels of 70% or greater will "drastically slow drying and curing," but again will not prevent you from applying.
Applying above a RH level of 85% is strongly not recommended. Coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify.
However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too
One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon.
You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin:
Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This permits moisture to get into the uncured paint film allowing certain ingredients to come to the surface when the moisture evaporates, causing surface staining and possible adhesion problems.
How to apply Reinforcement Fabric
Physical Characteristic
• Weight Per Gallon 10.43lb
• % Solids By Weight 63.55
• % Solids By Volume 44.06
• PH 8.8
• Viscosity 101KU
• Low VOC ---------
• Material VOC 0.26lb/Gal
• Single Part VOC 0.55lb/Gal
• Elongation 150-200%
Thermal Properties
• Low Temperature Range - 60º F To - 30º F
• Minimum For Continuous Use (Static) - 60º F
• Brittle Point - 80º F
• High Temperature Range + 210º F To + 250º F
• Maximum For Continuous Use (Static) + 225º F
Environmental Performance
• Colorability Good
• Flame Resistance Poor
• Gas Permeability Fair
• Odor Good
• Ozone Resistance (With Stabilizer) Good To Excellent
• Oxidation Resistance Good To Excellent
• Radiation Resistance Poor To Good
• Steam Resistance Good To Excellent
• Sunlight Resistance (With Stabilizer) Good To Excellent
• Taste Retention Fair To Good
• Weather Resistance Good To Excellent
• Water Resistance Good To Excellent
Resistance
• Oil Good To Excellent
• Hydraulic Fluid Good To Excellent
• Gas Good
• Diesel Good To Excellent
• Acids Diluted Good
• Acids Concentrated Fair To Good
• Electrical Properties Good To Excellent
PLEASE NOTE:
Curing Time Depends On Temperature And The Ability To Remove The Water From The Rubber. The More Air Movement The Quicker It Will Dry. When You Are Doing A Pond Or Enclosed Space Remember Water Is Heaver Then Air And The Moisture Will Hang At The Bottom Surface Of Your Application Which Will Greatly Increase Dry Time.
Keep In Mind That Temperatures Vary Drastically In Some Regions, And It May Take Several Weeks To Fully Cure If Applied During A Cool Season. However, Even In A Non-Cured State, It Will Withstand Water And Rainfall. Any Application Where The Rubber Will Be Totally Immersed In Water Must Be Completely Cured A Minimum Of 7 Days In Dry Warm Weather Before It Is Ready To Use.
See Specific Application Instructions:
SAFETY DATA SHEET
Date Of Preparation
5/20/2016
PRODUCT NUMBER LP16C03B
PRODUCT NAME Rubberize -It Dura Rubber Black
Telephone Numbers And Websites
Use With-In 6 Months Of Manufacture Date
% By Weight CAS Number Ingredient Units Vapor Pressure
1-5% 29911-28-2 Dipropylene Glycol N Butyl Ether
ACGIH: N/L
NIOSH N/L
OSHA PEL: N/L
10-20% 1317-61-9 Iron Oxide Black
5-10% 1314-13-2 Zinc Oxide
5-10% 1332.58-7 Kaolin
ROUTES OF EXPOSURE HMIS / NFPA Codes
This Product Will Not Exert A Significant Adverse Effect To Health From Any Route Of Exposure.
EFFECTS OF OVEREXPOSURE
EYES: Not Expected To Be Irritating. No Visual Impairment Is Expected.
SKIN: Not Expected To Be Irritating. Not Expected To Be Toxic From Dermal Contact.
INGESTION: May Cause Bowel Irritation And Gastrointestinal Discomfort. Not Expected To Be Toxic By Ingestion.
INHALATION: N/A
SIGNS AND SYMPTOMS OF OVEREXPOSURE
None Generally Recognized.
MEDICAL CONDITIONS AGGRAVATED BY EXPOSURE
None Generally Recognized.
CANCER INFORMATION
For Complete Discussion Of Toxicology Data Refer To Section 11.
EYES: Flush Eyes With Large Amounts Of Water For 15 Minutes. Seek Medical Attention If Irritation Develops.
SKIN: Wash Affected Area Thoroughly With Soap And Water.
Remove Contaminated Clothing And Launder Before Re-Use.
INHALATION: If Affected, Remove From Exposure. Seek Medical Attention If Breathing Becomes Difficult.
INGESTION: Iimmediately Drink Water To Dilute. Do Not Induce Vomiting. Seek Medical Attention If Irritation Developes. Never Give Anything By Mouth To An Unconscious Person
FLASH POINT LEL UEL FLAMMABILITY CLASSIFICATION
61.9 C 1.10% 12.70% N/A
EXTINGUISHING MEDIA: Carbon Dioxide, Dry Chemical, Alcohol Foam, Foam, Water Fog
UNUSUAL FIRE AND EXPLOSION HAZARDS
No Available Data.
SPECIAL FIRE FIGHTING PROCEDURES
Use Normal Fire-Fighting Equipment And The Personal Protective Equipment Recommended In Section 8 To Include A NIOSH Approved Self-Contained Breathing Apparatus.
STEPS TO BE TAKEN IN CASE MATERIAL IS RELEASED OR SPILLED
Create A Dike Or Trench To Contain Materials. Absorb Spill With Inert Material, Then Place In A Chemical Waste Container. Contain All Liquids For Treatment Or Disposal.
STORAGE CATEGORY
Not Aplicable
PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN IN HANDLING AND STORAGE
Keep Container Closed When Not In Use. Transfer Only To Approved Containers With Complete And Appropriate Labeling. Do Not Take Internally. Keep From Freezing.
Keep Out Of Reach Of Children.
PRECAUTIONS TO BE TAKEN IN USE
Use Only With Adequate Ventilation.
Avoid Contact With Skin And Eyes. Avoid Breathing Vapor And Spray Mist. Wash Hands After Using.
VENTILATION
Local Exhaust Preferable. General Exhaust Acceptable If The Exposure To Materials In Section 2 Is Maintained Below Applicable Exposure Limits. Refer To OSHA Standards 1910.94, 1910.107, 1910.108.
RESPIRATORY PROTECTION
Not Normally Required.
PROTECTIVE GLOVES
Wear Impervious Gloves To Avoid Skin Contact.
EYE PROTECTION
Wear Stafety Glasses.
DENSITY (#/Gal) 10.41 Lb/Gal
SPECIFIC GRAVITY 1.25
BOILING POINT 168-171 C
MELTING POINT N/A
VOLATILE VOLUME N/A
EVAPORATION RATE Slower Than Ether
VAPOR DENSITY Heavier Than Air
SOLUBILITY IN WATER Yes
PH 8.3-9.3
VISCOSITY 90-100KU
PHYSICAL STATE Liquid
FORM Low Visc
COLOR Black
ODOR Mild Latex
Coating VOC 0.86 Lb/Gal
Material VOC 0.41 Lb/Gal
STABILITY - Stable CONDITIONS TO AVOID
None Known.
INCOMPATIBILITY
Avoid Contact With Strong Oxidizing Agents.
HAZARDOUS DECOMPOSITION PRODUCTS
None Known.
HAZARDOUS POLYMERIZATION
Will Not Occur.
CHRONIC HEALTH HAZARDS
Not Expected To Be Hazardous.
TOXICOLOGY DATA
ECOTOXICOLOGICAL INFORMATION
No Data Available.
WASTE DISPOSAL METHOD
Waste From This Product Is Not Hazardous As Defined Under The Resource Conservation And Recovery Act (RCRA) 40 CFR 261.
Dispose Of In Accordance With Federal, State/Provincial, And Local Regulations Regarding Pollution.
US Ground (DOT)
Not Regulated For Transportation.
Canada (TDG)
Not Regulated For Transportation.
IMO IATA/ICAO
Not Regulated For Transportation. Not Regulated For Transportation.
SARA 313 (40 CFR 372.65C) SUPPLIER NOTIFICATION
CAS No. CHEMICAL/COMPOUND % By WT % Element
No Ingredients In This Product Are Subject To SARA 313 (40CFR 372.65C) Supplier Notification.
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65
This Product Does Not Contain Chemical(S) Known To The State Of California Proposition 65 To Cause Cancer And/Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm.
TSCA CERTIFICATION
All Chemicals In This Product Are Listed, Or Are Exempt From Listing, On The TSCA Inventory.
The Above Information Pertains To This Product As Currently Formulated, And Is Based On The Information Information Available At This Time. Addition Of Reducers Or Other Additives To This Product May
Substantially Alter The Composition And Hazards Of The Product. Since Conditions Of Use Are Outside Our Control,
We Make No Warranties, Express Or Implied, And Assume No Liability In Connection With Any Use Of This Information.
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