Liquid rubber coatings are versatile and durable solutions used for various applications, including floors, roofs, and ponds. They are typically made from a synthetic rubber compound that can be applied as a liquid, forming a seamless, waterproof membrane when it cures. Here are some details about liquid rubber coatings for these specific applications:
1. **For Floors**:
- **Advantages**: Liquid rubber coatings for floors offer several advantages, such as:
- Waterproofing: They create a seamless barrier against water, making them ideal for
areas prone to moisture.
- Durability: Once cured, they are resilient to foot traffic, heavy loads, and abrasion.
- Chemical Resistance: Many liquid rubber products are resistant to various chemicals,
oils, and solvents.
- Easy Application: They can be applied with a roller or brush, simplifying the installation process.
- **Applications**: Liquid rubber coatings are used in various floor settings, including:
- Basements
- Garages
- Decks and patios
- Commercial and industrial floors
- Walkways and balconies
2. **For Roofs**:
- **Advantages**: Liquid rubber coatings for roofs have become increasingly popular due
to their benefits:
- Waterproofing: They form a seamless, waterproof barrier that protects against leaks.
- UV Resistance: Many formulations are designed to resist UV rays, reducing heat
absorption and extending roof life.
- Flexibility: Liquid rubber can expand and contract with temperature changes, reducing
the risk of cracking.
- Energy Efficiency: Reflective coatings can help reduce cooling costs by reflecting sunlight.
- **Applications**: Liquid rubber coatings are suitable for various roof types, such as:
- Flat roofs
- Metal roofs
- RV roofs
- Concrete roofs
- EPDM rubber roofs
3. **For Ponds**:
- **Advantages**: Liquid rubber coatings are an excellent choice for pond lining due to
their characteristics:
- Safe for Aquatic Life: They are non-toxic and safe for fish and plants in ponds.
- Flexibility: Liquid rubber can conform to the shape of the pond, including irregular
contours.
- Seamless: The seamless application eliminates seams where leaks could occur.
- Durability: Resistant to UV rays and weathering, providing long-lasting protection.
- **Applications**: Liquid rubber coatings are used for various pond types, such as:
- Garden ponds
- Koi ponds
- Aquaculture ponds
- Water features
When considering a liquid rubber coating, it's essential to choose the right product for the specific application.
Factors to consider include:
**Type of Substrate**: Ensure the coating is compatible with the surface material
(concrete, metal, EPDM, etc.).
- **Curing Time**: Some coatings cure faster than others, affecting the installation
timeline.
**Environmental Conditions**: Consider temperature and humidity requirements for
proper curing.
- **UV Resistance**: Especially important for outdoor applications like roofs and ponds
exposed to sunlight.
- **Chemical Resistance**: Important for floors that may encounter oils, chemicals, or
other substances.
It's also crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions for preparation, application, and curing to ensure the best results and longevity of the
Wood - Metal - Concrete - EPDM - & More |
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Cured: Any concrete must be sufficiently cured to have complete hydration, approximately 28 days depending on temperatures & humidity. |
Sound: Dura-Rubber should not be placed on flaking concrete, spalling concrete. Surfaces exhibiting delamination, divots, spalls or any other surface anomalies, should be addressed by diamond grinding, shot blasting, or other mechanical methods leaving the surface properly profiled (see #3 below). Depending upon size of area, patching may be required prior to application of Dura-RubberTM. |
Profiled: For a proper bond, the surface of concrete must be prepared in accordance with the standards established by theInternational Concrete Repair Institute (ICRI) Technical Guideline no. 03732 for Concrete Surface Profile (CSP). The established profile is categorized as CSP-1 through CSP-3. Customarily cement-based overlays do not require profiling. |
Clean: After surface profiling is complete and prior to application of Dura-Rubber the surface must be free of any contaminants that serve as a bond breaker or prevent proper adhesion. This includes but is not limited to; dust, dirt, oil, grease, paints, glues, sealers, curing agents, efflorescence, chemical contaminants, rust, algae, mildew and other foreign matter. |
Limit Moisture: Since Dura-Rubber is not vapor permeable and due to the uncertainty of vapor barriers placed beneath concrete, testing prior to application is required. a. Plastic sheet test (ASTM-D-4263) can often identify excessive moisture vapor transmission. Tape all 4 sides of an 18” (45 cm) square of clear plastic to the slab and leave in place for 16 hours. Any condensation formed or darkening of the slab beneath the plastic indicates the surface is too wet for polyurethane. b. Calcium Chloride test (ASTM-F-1869) will quantify the amount of moisture that is transmitted to surface of the slab. The moisture measurement is expressed in terms of pounds (kg) per 1,000 ft2 (m2) per 24 hours. Measurements that are in excess of 3 pounds per 1,000 ft2 (1.4 kg per 100 m2) over 24 hours are too wet for polyurethane. Follow directions of test kit manufacturer. c. Use a moisture meter moisture must be below 9% Test in multiple locations |
PH Level: Do not apply Dura-Rubber when PH readings reading are above 10.5, typically this is found on freshly placed concrete before a cure of 28 days. |
Curing" or "Vulcanization" TimesYou will notice the product is dry to the touch with-in a few hours, and will be waterproof. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes 7 days. You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete. |
DISPOSAL: Contact your local government household hazardous waste coordinator for information on disposal of unused product. Upon curing, left over catalyzed product is not hazardous. |
FIRST COAT: For a 20mil coat, it will take one gallon to get 20mil dry (40sfper gallon). The Dura-Rubber is 61% solids , so if you apply 3ea 10mil coats, you will get 20mil dry. The easiest way to do it. If you purchased 4 fives, that is enough to cover 800sf at 20mil, so if your pond has 800sf apply until it is gone. 10mil coats would be the maximum per coat you can apply without cracking due to the water in the product escaping during drying. To give you an idea, latex paint for walls goes on at about 1-2 mill per coat about as thick as copy paper. The thickness required will vary depending on the application. If you are using a tinted product it is recommended you use black or white for your base coats and top coat with the color coat. |
Drying: Needs to "deep" dry between application coats. This means that because Dura-Rubber is water-based, all water must evaporate out of each application coat prior to the next application coat. Otherwise, the rubber will develop small bubbles of fluid between the coats. If you have small bubbles appearing on your project, you need to wait longer between your application coats. Time to dry between applications coats is approximately 3-8 hours - depending on temperature and relative humidity |
SECOND COAT & AND TOP COAT: Surface Preparation for additional or subsequent coats or topcoat: Optimal window of time to apply subsequent coats, or the top coat, is within 12- 48 hours. This will allow for a chemical bond. Apply additional coats at the rate of no more than 10 wet mils per coat |
SUITABILITY SAMPLE: Because job site conditions and requirements can vary significantly, always prepare a sample on site. The sample should determine the adhesion to the concrete you can test one of two ways.1. Apply a 12x12 thin coat. Let dry for 24 hours minimum With a utility knife cut an X in the coating. Firmly stick some duct tape to the coating and pull the tape off. If it dees not remove the coating you are good to apply. We recommend you do this in a few areas.2. Cut a 6" long piece of reinforcement fabric and using the Dura-Rubber glue one end the the concrete making a flap. Let dry for a minimum of 24 hours the longer the stronger it we be. Pull on the tab to test adhesion. |
CLEAN-UP: Before Dura-Rubber dries; spills and tools can be cleaned up with a soap and water. If it drys you will most likly have to dispose of the tool. |
DISPOSAL: Contact your local government household hazardous waste coordinator for information on disposal of unused product. Upon curing, left over catalyzed product is not hazardous. |
WARRANTY: Warranty of this product, when used according to the directions, is limited to refund of purchase price, or replacement of product (if defective), at manufactures/ seller’s option. Rubberizeit shall not be liable for cost of labor or direct and/or incidental consequential damages. |
CAUTIONSKEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. Although Dura-Rubber is non-toxic and low voc it is recommended to when prolonged breathing of vapors. Use NIOSH approved mask for organic vapors if threshold limit values are unsafe. Skin Contact: Skin contact may cause irritation.Remove contaminated clothing and wash affected skin with soap and water. Launder clothing before reuse. If symptoms persist, seek medical attention. Eyes: Wear safety eye protection when applying. Contact with eyes may cause irritation. Flush eyes with water for 15 minutes. If symptoms persist, seek medical attention. |
What our customers say
I first purchased rubberizeit over 5 years ago to protect our house in Louisiana from the flooding.Every year Rita and I would have to dry out carpet and fix damaged drywall from flooding.I removed 12” of siding and replaced it with cement board and waterproofed it with rubberizeit. For five years our house has been dry. I painted my house this year and the rubberizeit I put on five years ago was black I purchased a five of rubberizeit and they were able to tint it to match my house.Thank you Mr Paul
Lloyd & Rita Landry
Louisiana
I had the opportunity to work the rubberizeit team. They are in Oregon and I am I Texas. I was looking to refresh my pool/spa via high end paint vs a costly re-plaster. Their paint was a perfect solution. I needed 20-25 gallons to get two full coats. Although there was a small snag with my initial order the rubberizeit customer service team jumped into action and handled all my questions and even provided additional paint to resolve the earlier snag with the initial order. Impressed with the product and the company.
Steve Bacon
Texas
Rubberize It! liquid rubber coating was the perfect solution for me. By painting the bonding layer up my walls, into my corners, and down my pitches there was no folding, pleating, or splicing I needed to do and it made one integral coating. Next I laid down my mesh, since this is thin mesh and not a water impervious sheet, I could just lay it and push it into my bonding layer and it created a continuous layer across my entire surface and all my abutments. This year I need to build two more decks on opposite corners of the house. Two more batches of Rubberize It! liquid rubber please. Thank you for providing me this great solution that fit my custom project.
Kenny Parton
Oregon
Hi Paul the boat is finished and I am impressed with the Rubberizeit paint. It is a tough finish I am very happy with the results. Dave
Dave
Washington
Sustainable
Top quality and long product life with no replacement parts required.
Cruelty-free
No animals were used in the development of this product.
Rechargeable
USB rechargeable with up to 125 uses per single charge.
Hygienic
Made of bacteria-resistant silicone, easy to clean.
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Frequently asked questions
Dry times and curing times?
Drying is 3-5 hours per coat , curing time after the final coat. before you fill with water is 5-7 days depending on temperature and humidity. Temperature below 55 degrees and Humidity Above 55% will slow dry and cure times.
If you apply new coats after the coating has cured you must follow the same process as above.
To test if it is cured. After five days sprinkle some water on the coating if it turns light in color it is not fully cured if it stays the same you are good to fill.
By Concrete Construction Staff
Q: We placed a concrete slab for an exterior multipurpose game court. How long do we have to wait before painting basketball-court lines?
A: Because many different paint types are available for concrete surfaces, you should follow the instructions provided by the paint manufacturer. Most literature recommends a 28-day cure, but it's not clear whether that means a 28-day drying period after the concrete has been moist cured, or a 28-day wait after the concrete has been placed. The Portland Cement Association (Ref. 1) recommends waiting 28 days to 6 months, depending on surface conditions and the coatings used on the surface.
An American Concrete Institute publication (Ref. 2) suggests that the moisture content of concrete is excessive for paint application if moisture collects at the bond line between the concrete and the paint before the paint has cured. This can be evaluated by taping a 4x4-foot clear plastic sheet to the concrete surface and determining the time required for moisture to collect on the underside of the sheet. During the test, the ambient conditions (sunlight, temperature, and relative humidity) should simulate, as much as practical, the conditions existing during paint application and curing. Compare the time for the moisture to collect with the paint curing time--a value that should be supplied by the paint manufacturer. The concrete is adequately dry if the paint will cure in a time shorter than that required for moisture to collect under the plastic sheet.
References
"Painting Concrete," IS134, Portland Cement Association, Skokie, Ill., 1992.ACI 515.1R-79, "A Guide to the Use of Waterproofing, Dampproofing, Protective, and Decorative Barrier Systems for Concrete," American Concrete Institute, Farmington Hills, Mich., 1979, p. 16.
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The longer it cures the harder it will be to remove it.
Jasco Paint/Epoxy remover will soften it so you can try scraping if off.
Grinding it off.
There may be other options but these are the ones we have found the most success with.